How to Find a Used Car Dealer

By: Rick Braun

It will be a momentous decision when you decide to buy a used car or second hand car. If you take a wrong decision, it will be a bothering experience throughout your life. It is not like buying vegetables or provisions on a daily basis. It is once in 4/5 years we buy a second hand car. So, utmost care & concentration is required. There are number of models & makes and there is an equal number dealers & sellers to choose from. It is a time consuming process to knock at the right door. As the options are plenty, it will be a case of confusion worse confounded.

You have to spend time for making a decision. First, you have to decide about your requirement. For what purpose, you are in need of this car? Is it merely for transporting somebody? Is it a family car used for picnic jaunts? Do you require the car for cargo moment? Does it serve the purpose of school shuttles? Or is it going to be used as an ambulance? Or, precisely, is it intended to serve as a mortuary van? Will it be employed in tourist industry? Or, a safe-vault for transferring cash from banks to offices? All these aspects are to be thought about before deciding to purchase.

You have to enlist the various features pertaining to a car.

MPG – Fuel prices (Periodic increases consequent upon the crude oil price in the international market).

Fuel Type – Petrol/diesel/hybrid.

Engine Capacity – 1200cc/1600cc/3litres.

Insurance Coverage – your premium amount & the payment pattern.

Doors – 3/4/5

Color – in tune with your aesthetic sensibility.

Accessories – Car radio, A/C plant, headlights, over-roof carrier, etc,

Upholstery – interior decoration satisfying your tastes.

Mileage – low or high mileage to serve your specific needs.

Price – to fall within your budgetary allocation.

All these factors are to be reflected upon before clinching the deal. To facilitate you, Internet comes to your rescue. Please search with autotrader.co.uk, compucars.co.uk, and eBay.co.uk or fireup Google to search for the dealer.

On chancing upon the right car, you have to prepare a checklist of procedures to follow. RAC can be entrusted upon making a mechanical check upon the car. HPI is another organization which can give a report on the status check of the car. You have to get a VSC certificate and a latest MOT certificate. Service history & mileage factor are to be taken care of. Then, comes the question of warranty & guarantee. After sale service is an important area. If you intend to buy from a dealer, enquire about his business reputation in the market. Why not visit car sales Plymouth or check here cars sales Plymouth to get more details.

The used car sales in Michigan are noteworthy as it comes with great discounts. How to get the best bargain is the next question. The vehicles coming for sales are normally repossessed by banks due to default in payments or impounded by the police when the owner violates traffic rules or stolen property confiscated by the hands of law. Due to such actions, a third party is permitted to hold auctions. Internet provides you instant information about place of auction, date, car lists, owner’s names… They are sold within the shortest possible time & at reasonable prices. Even though it is a highly-profitable market, this auction has remained in low limelight till date. Only a selected group of dealers participate.

Information about auctions are published in newspapers. At any rate, presently, Internet offers very good opportunity to note online data bases. Search for repossessed cars based on location. All latest info about auctions can b accessed from computers within Internet connection. Different types of vehicles – sports, SUV’s, trucks, Lorries, vans, mini buses – come for sale as per Internet directory. Online listing saves time & energy and directs the buyer to auctioneers in the place of dealers. Locating second hand cars in WI depends on information root & its trustworthiness. You should know how it operates & how to get out of scams/scandals.

In some auctions, preview period is allowed. This gives you ample chance to verify the conditions of the car, if at all you are assisted by an experienced mechanic. Check all these aspects before signing on the cheque leaf. Now, the picture is rosy. And, you have to be choosy.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3011.shtml

Removing Water Marks From Glass

By: Jon Miller (TOGWT)

Removing Water (Spots) Marks

Detailer’s may occasionally come across vehicles which exhibit what appears to be one of the following conditions: Water Spots, Etching or a “rough to the touch” feel.

Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) the spots are actually traces of minerals in the pores of the glass. They need to be dissolved into a liquid and then rinsed off. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)

There are two categories of ‘water spots’-

1) Stage One Corrosion

[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

(Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

2) Stage Two Corrosion

[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

Below surface (etched) acidic watermarks – are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.

If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won’t discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

Use the least abrasive product first-

1.Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2.Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b)Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3.Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4.Use detailing clay to remove any ‘hard’ surface granules

5.Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6.For Ceramiclear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7.Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8.Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

1a) Removing surface (Stage One Corrosion) –

Methodology

•Use detailing clay to remove any ‘hard’ surface granules

•Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid pH 2.4)

b)Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface

•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•If any ‘water marks’ remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)

1b) Removing etched below surface (Stage Two Corrosion)-

Methodology

•These can be removed by using detailer’s clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

•Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One ) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 / 1200 RPM ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

•Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

•Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

•Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.

•If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish

1c) To neutralise acid water spots using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system

Notes-

1. Synthetic steel or bronze wool whatever the grade can leave micro-scratches in the glass, which then become impregnated with road dirt, grit and grime, causing a clouding the glass over time, which impairs visibility.

2. Do not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.

3. For deeply etched water spots (> 0.004 Mil) in the windshield surface, do not attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive windshield vendor as glass or plastic used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer) due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause surface to become badly scratched, stressed or cracked.

3. Be cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like aluminium or cerium oxide as they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.

4. Some windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will scratch or be damaged, only use a glass polish (not synthetic steel or bronze wool) on uncoated glass.

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•If any ‘water marks’ remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3050.shtml

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Most states require you to have an automobile insurance card in your vehicle while it is being operated. In some states the proof of insurance is done at the registry and no card is required. In New Hampshire and Wisconsin no auto insurance is required at all. The card itself should have your name, policy number, and the contact information for the automobile insurance company.

The auto insurance card is an important document and you should request one even if your state does not require one. In Massachusetts there is no requirement to carry an insurance card, but if you live in MA and plan to drive through a state that requires you have one it is better to have it than not.

The penalty for not having proof of insurance can range from a ticket, which is a moving violation and will raise your insurance premiums, to license suspension. In Florida, for instance, they can suspend your license for up to three years or until you get insurance and pay a re-instatement fee which can be up to five-hundred dollars.

As you can see having the proof of insurance card with you is very important in order to stay out of trouble. If you bought your automobile insurance online you are better off in case of a lost or stolen card.

By purchasing your auto insurance online not only will you save a bunch of money you will also cut down on the inconvenience of not having an automobile insurance card if you lose yours. The cards can be downloaded and printed at any time of the day or night.

Replacing your lost insurance card is not the only benefit to shopping for auto insurance online. By purchasing your car insurance online you will have access to all of your insurance documents at any time of the day or night.

Compare free car insurance quotes online at www.SuperCheapQuotes.com today.

We also specialize in Charlotte car insurance.

Geo Prizm Built by the Combine Effort of GM and Toyota

By: Gary Millar

The Geo Prizm is a vehicle which has been made from 1990 up until the year 1997 by a cooperation and venture by the General Motors Corporation and the Toyota Motor Company. It had essentially replaced the Geo Range , as well as the Chevrolet Nova among the firm’s line up of vehicle models. The Geo Prizm is a compact car and comes in 2 body styles which comprise of the sedan with four doors and the hot hatch that sports five doors. It has been related to the Toyota Corolla and the Toyota Runner , and also considered the Ford Escort, the Dodge Colt, the Honda Civic, and the Nissan Sentra as its competition. When the production of this car had been permanently halted, the Chevrolet Prizm then succeeded this car.

In the US, the Geo Prizm was considered to be a tiny auto in the car In the automobile market. In that it still existed, the Geo Prizm was powered by the same engines that the Toyota Corollas during that time also held. From 1989 up until Prizm had been powered by the 4A FE or the optional 4A GE engine. Come 1993 up until 1997, the machine was powered by the 4A FE engine or the optional 7A FE engine. As per its last years, 1998 up until the year 2002, the Geo Prizm got its power from the 1ZZ FE engine.

This vehicle was made to sport a rear spoiler as well as body coloured grilles and fenders. There also were four wheel disc brakes. Changes were also done with the Geo Prizm. In 1991, the car was reintroduced wearing a new chrome steel exhaust system as well as black body side moldings. People who were able to deal with the Geo Prizm related that regardless of having quite a cramped passenger room and a very limited cargo room, the vehicle still recovered through a great acceleration, a better refinement, a comfortable ride, delightful visibility and a very good fuel use. Other features that the Geo Prizm held included gray steel wheels, amalgamate wheels, full wheel covers, a rounded body, snake eye headlights, flush door handles, 60/40 split back seats, a CD player, twin airbags, daytime running lights, antilock brakes, a sunroof, as well as a tilt steering wheel.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_2980.shtml

Hybrid Vehicles and Their Insurance, Gas and Maintenance Costs

By: Robert Henry

If you are planning to purchase a hybrid vehicle, you have to take time to research on the different rates that are being offered by automobile insurance companies. This is so because insurance rate for hybrid vehicles varies sharply from one insurer to the other. There are no clear indications when it comes to insurance costs for hybrid vehicles which is why a thorough research ought to be conducted when shopping for an insurance policy for hybrid vehicles with cheap insurance.

In some cases, hybrid car owners may enjoy low automobile insurance premiums as compared to owners of traditional or standard vehicles. If you choose to buy a hybrid vehicle you should be aware that there are few automobile insurance companies that offer lower premiums for their clients. The reason why these insurance companies are offering lower premiums are because they are using it as marketing tool as part of helping those people who want to be environment friendly. In addition these insurance companies are aware that hybrid car owners tend to be an insurance risk as compared to the others.

Even though in some cases the insurance cost for hybrid vehicles may end up being less than those of the traditional vehicles, you may also find out that the costs associated with hybrid vehicles are the same with those from a standard vehicle. If this is the case the insurance company may perform a risk analysis based on the cost of each vehicle to ascertain the cost of repairing or replacing a vehicle when it has been damaged. There are also some insurance companies which charge a bit high for the hybrid vehicles. This is because it can be a bit more expensive to repair a hybrid vehicle after an accident and may be due to the damages that the hybrid sustained.

Hybrid vehicles are becoming more and more popular and are increasing on the road each day which is why most insurance companies are reducing their premium rates in order to encourage more people to buy hybrid vehicles. The method of calculating the rates to be charged by auto insurance companies is based on some set criteria. This may include and is not limited to the age of the driver, distaste to risk when driving, and driving record among other factors. For instance if the auto insurance company offers a policy to a driver with a normal vehicle, they use some formulas to ascertain the likelihood for that particular driver to make a claim in the future.

Based on the above reasons you may have found out that it is necessary to shop around when looking for an insurance policy for your hybrid vehicle. The purpose for this is to get a comprehensive insurance coverage that offers the best premiums that will be affordable for you in the long run. You have to take time to do this because in the end you will find the best possible insurance for your hybrid vehicle with the most reasonable premiums.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3045.shtml

How to Change the Evaportor in a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Without Wanting to Push it off a Cliff

By: Frank Scammell

Changing the evaporator core in a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited is not too difficult IF you take your time and don’t get frustrated. This was on a 5.2 liter engine.

Several fasteners are hidden or nearly so and some of the electrical connectors have locking mechanisms to keep them from vibrating loose.

I was lucky and could work at this in my spare time because I have an extra vehicle. It took me 3 evenings after work to get every thing apart, remove the heater /AC box and get it apart and cleaned up. I also went ahead and replaced the heater core, as this is a one-time project I hope.

Once I got the parts correct parts I was able to get the heater box in and plumbing done in one evening.

I waited until I could get my buddy to bring his nitrogen tank and vacuum pump over so we could pressurize the system to check for leaks then pull a vacuum on it before putting the dash in. No need to go to all the trouble of installing the dash only to find a connection somewhere is leaking.

The dash was set in place the next evening and then buttoned up with all the connectors and dash trim. Then the key was turned and she came back to life!! Who Hoo!!

So here are the steps I took to remove everything.

On the inside of the Jeep

Ø Put both seats as far back as you can and tilted back as well.

Under the hood:

Ø Disconnect the battery and secure the lead from accidentally re-connecting as you are climbing around in the engine compartment.

Ø Assuming that there was a leak in the core (other wise why would you be doing this?) the AC system should be empty of Freon.

Ø Drain the coolant

Ø Remove the coolant overflow tank.

Ø Remove the PCM, Its mounted with 3 – 8 mm screws. 2 of mine came out but the 3rd broke off so I had to swing mine up out of the way. It turned out to be a PITA but I made it work.

Ø Next loosen the clamp bolt holding the dryer in place.

Ø NOTE: Even though the system has been discharged please wear your safety glasses and use caution when opening the lines!!

Ø Remove both AC lines. Plug the lines and openings to keep oil from dripping all over you and your driveway. You will need a couple sizes of special disconnect tools. I bought a whole selection of them from Advance Auto for about 15 bucks. Don’t try it with out the tools you’ll get frustrated and bust something.

Ø NOTE: The pipes for the heater core crush super easy!! It may be best to remove the hoses at the engine and pull the heater box out and the hoses along with if you’re not planning on replacing the heater core. I didn’t heed this and crushed mine trying to break the hoses loose.

Ø Slide the squeeze type clamps back away from the firewall and off the hoses or you wont be able to get the box out.

Ø There are 5 – 7/16 nuts to remove that hold the heater box against the firewall. One behind the PCM another the is hidden because there is a bundle of wires tied to it, 2 near the heater hoses and one behind the distributor cap. This one you may want to remove the Intake snorkel to get the nut off.

Ø Block the wheels so the jeep won’t move as we need to take it out of gear.

Now lets get back on the inside of the Jeep!!

v Turn on the ignition and put the shifter in low to get it out of the way.

v Remove the A- pillar trim on both sides, speaker trim that fits against the windshield, watch for the light sensor! Twist to remove it. Next the center dash trim and burled wood look trim if so equipped.

v Remove right (passenger) kick panel.

v On passenger side remove all those pesky electrical plugs connected to the fuse block. They all simply plug in and are keyed to keep them from going in the wrong place.

v There is a bolt above the fuse box and connector 13 mm if I recall that has to be removed to loosen the dash.

v Pull back the carpet near the center of the dash. There is a ½ inch hose here to take loose.

v Pull out the antennae connector and disconnect it if you can get to it at this time. There are also a couple of miscellaneous connectors under this side of the dash as well. Take your time and look around. I also removed the glove box to be able to get a better look around in there. Just a couple of screws are all that holds it in place.

v On the drivers side remove the plastic trim from under the steering column.

v Remove the knee block from under the dash and the metal brace beneath that.

v Remove the lower corner trim from the dash 2 screws and a clip.

v Behind the corner trim is a hole with a bolt way back in it. Remove the 13 mm bolt you find inside and move to the center console.

v Center console- pull back carpet from bottom of dash area . There is a metal plate with 2 bolts (13mm) to the floor and 2 to the bottom center of the dash.

v Remove the ashtray and behind it the screw into the dash.

v Disconnect the brake light switch. Tilt the steering wheel up and remove the tilt lever. Remove the 2 screws holding the plastic housing around the column. Once you have those out of the way disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the multi function switch and anything else in there. The multi function switch has a bolt thru the center of it to hold it in place.

v Remove the bolts from underneath the column that hold it to the dash.

v Be careful not to turn the wheel with it disconnected as I’ve heard that internal damage to the steering mechanism can occur.

v Remove the nuts along the top of the dash under where the speaker/defrost grill was removed.

v I also removed all the screws from the dash pad and took it out as well. I found out later that this was an un necessary step but not a complete waste as I thought it made handling the dash by myself easier. There were more places to grab a hold of it and to maneuver it for easier removal.

v You may want to cover the shifter console with a thick blanket

as the dash will be resting on it as you take it out.

v SLOWLY start to move the dash back and watch for missed connectors as you go. Once you have the dash loose remove it and place it somewhere out of the way.

v Here may be a good time for an adult beverage if you are so inclined.

v Now you can see the heater/AC box. You can finally see your prey!!

v There is one or maybe two 10 mm bolts left holding it in place along with a connector to the heater fan. The connector wires are red and black I think.

v There is also the AC drain outlet, which goes thru the firewall. It probably is stuck in place with RTV.

v Now if you haven’t missed any thing the heater box should come free with some gentle persuasion.

Once you have it out and on the garage floor or bench turn it upside down and start removing the screws holding the halves of the box together. One screw is under some of the ducting. Remove the ducting by pressing in on the snap connections. Once the box comes apart the evaporator slides out. The heater core is held in place with a screw on top of the housing as I remember.

Now if you haven’t gotten frustrated and taken a blow torch to your vehicle you should be ready to put it all back together again.

Remember take your time and if you start feeling rushed or stressed -walk away!!

I hope this guide has been helpful to you.

Visit me @ http://www.frankscammell.com

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3036.shtml

Defensive Driving Skills- For Your Protection On The Road

By: Dev Kon

When you see road accidents, have you ever wondered if that could happen to you one day? You don’t have to live in with that fear anymore as you can find many approved online portals offering classes on the techniques of defensive driving in Florida.

Defensive driving skills can prove to be a great help for you against any dangerous situations on the road. You can learn the techniques from any online defensive driving fl classes and improve your driving skills. If you think Florida defensive driving are only taken by drivers who have been assigned by a court or judge then, you are wrong. Now these Florida defensive driving classes are sought out by those who wish to become a responsible driver.

How defensive driving skills can help you

Learning the defensive driving is not just for you. Not all the drivers you share the road with are responsible enough. Some of them drive aggressively. Some are careless while some just don’t pay attention on the road. These drivers are known road hazards and cause 1/3 of all traffic accidents in US. Though, you cannot control their actions, but you can definitely enhance your defensive driving skills by joining a FL defensive driving online course. If you learn the defensive driving techniques, you will make the road safer for you and others as well.

A defensive driving FL will also help you deal with any emergency on the road. Road emergencies can occur when you least expect them. You need to think fast and take action. Not all emergencies are the same. The Florida defensive driving classes will prepare you with different approaches for different emergencies call.

Pay attention! That’s the main thing a defensive driver must do. Paying attention on the road is the key to all safety. This is one of the Florida defensive driving techniques that a defensive driving FL will teach you.

Drive like a pro in bad weathers or situations. With the defensive driving skills, you can easily know how to handle difficult situations while driving in bad weathers or in poorly constructed roads.

Defensive driving Florida will also tell you how to control your vehicle. You can make a great difference if you can take full control of your vehicle as that can minimize the chances of getting into a collision.

Now, it’s a great chance for you to improve your defensive driving skill and protect yourself against any danger on the road with the online defensive driving classes.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3033.shtml

2010 X1 Luxury Compact Crossover SUV Expands the BMW Sports Activity Family

By: Bechara Aboul-Nasr

>From this autumn, the family of BMW X models will welcome its newest member, the X1 compact crossover SUV, fitting neatly under the larger X3, X5 and X6 brothers. For the United States, the X1 is expected to arrive in calendar year 2011.

Targeted to a younger audience, the new BMW X1 compact proportions should give it the agility and versatility of compact cars (C-segment, lower medium) with the technical substance of a modern premium vehicle made by the largest luxury cars manufacturer in the world.

The X1 body is 4.45 metres (175.2″) long, which is significantly longer than the other 1 Series models (4.24 metre / 166.9” for the 3- and 5- door bodies, or 4.36 metre / 171.7” in the 1 Series coupe and convertible). Quite logically, it remains shorter than the 4.57 metres 1.79.9” of the larger X3 brother.

In wheelbase terms, the X1 enjoys a rather long dimension for the compact segment (2.76 metres /108.7”). It is equal to the 3 Series wheelbase (the X1 is a variation of the 3 Series platform), significantly longer than the wheelbase of the 1 Series models (2.66 metres / 104.7”) and slightly shorter than the 2.79 metres /110” wheelbase of the X3 (More about the main exterior and interior dimensions of the new BMW X1).

On the practical side, the rear seat comes with an adjustable backrest (for angle) and folds down in a 40/20/20 split, extending the luggage compartment capacity from its original 420 litres to a maximum of 1,350 litres. Above the 5 passengers, an electrically operated Panorama glass roof is available as an option.

Depending on the model variant, the X1 proposes gasoline and diesel engines, rear-wheel drive (sDrive versions) or all-wheel-drive technology (xDrive), as well as a range of BMW EfficientDynamics features including Brake Energy Regeneration, Auto Start Stop, and a gearshift point indicator.

Standard features include three-point inertia-reel seat belts all round, frontal and side airbags as well as head airbags at the side, adaptive Brake Lights and daytime driving lights. Options include Xenon headlights, Adaptive Headlights and a High-Beam Assistant.

X1 active safety equipments include high-precision power steering (rack-and-pinion), high-performance brakes, Dynamic Stability Control including Dynamic Traction Control and, as an option, Performance Control acting on the brakes.

In conjunction with the optional Business and Professional navigation systems, the X1 is equipped with the latest generation of BMW iDrive including a Controller and direct selection buttons on the centre console, a Control Display integrated in the instrument panel, and favourite buttons beneath the control panel for the standard air conditioning.

Sophisticated HiFi systems are available as an alternative to the audio system fitted as standard, and the AUX-In port likewise featured as standard may be supplemented by a USB interface. Optional driver assistance systems and a wide range of BMW ConnectedDrive services are also available with the new model.

The X1 will be launched with the following engine and transmission variants:

*** X1 xDrive28i: Straight-six gasoline engine with composite magnesium/aluminium crankcase, VALVETRONIC and dual-VANOS.

Capacity: 2,996 cc, max output: 190 kW/258 hp (255 bhp) at 6,600 rpm. Max torque: 310 Nm/228lb-ft from 2,600 to 3,000 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed automatic. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 6.8 sec. Top speed: 205 km/h (127 mph). 230 km/h or 143 mph with optional high-speed set-up.

- Urban fuel consumption to the EU standard: 13 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 21.7 mpg imp, 18.1 mpg USA, 7.7 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy (range) would be estimated at 484 km (301 miles) with the full 63-litre fuel tank.

- Extra urban fuel consumption: 7.3 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 38.7 mpg imp, 32.2 mpg USA, 13.7 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 863 km (536 miles).

- Combined fuel consumption: 9.4 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 30.0 mpg imp, 25.0 mpg USA, 10.64 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 670 km (416 miles).

- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 219 g/km. Emission standard: EU5.

*** X1 xDrive23d: Four-cylinder diesel engine with all-aluminium crankcase, BMW TwinPower Turbo and common rail direct fuel injection.

Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 150 kW/204 hp (201 bhp) at 4,400 rpm. Max torque: 400 Nm/295 lb-ft from 2,000 to 2,250 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed automatic. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 7.3 sec. Top speed: 205 km/h (127 mph). (223 km/h or 138 mph with optional high-speed set-up).

- Urban consumption to the EU standard: 7.8 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 36.2 mpg imp, 30.1 mpg USA, 12.8 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy (range) is 782 km (485 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank.

- Extra urban consumption: 5.5 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 51.3 mpg imp, 42.7 mpg USA, 18.2 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 1109 km (689 miles).

- Combined consumption: 6.3 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 44.8 mpg imp, 37.3 mpg USA, 15.8 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 968 km (601 miles).

- CO2 emissions: 167 g/km (EU5).

*** X1 xDrive20d: Four-cylinder diesel engine with all-aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable intake geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection.

Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 130 kW/177 hp (174 bhp) at 4,000 rpm. Max torque: 350 Nm/258 lb-ft from 1,750 to 3,000 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed manual or optional six-speed automatic. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 8.4 sec. Top speed: 205 km/h (127 mph). (213 km/h or 132 mph with optional high-speed set-up).

- Urban consumption (six-speed manual): 7.0 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 40.3 mpg imp, 33.6 mpg USA, 14.2 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy is 871 km (541 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank. Urban (optional six-speed automatic): 7.7 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 36.7 mpg imp, 30.5 mpg USA, 12.9 km / litre). Fuel autonomy is 792 km (492 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank.

- Extra urban consumption (six-speed manual): 5.1 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 55.3 mpg imp, 46.1 mpg USA, 19.6 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 1196 km (743 miles). Extra urban (optional six-speed automatic): 5.4 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 52.3 mpg imp, 43.5 mpg USA, 18.5 km / litre). Fuel autonomy is 983 km (611 miles).

- Combined consumption (six-speed manual): 5.8 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 48.6 mpg imp, 40.5 mpg USA, 17.2 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 1051 km (653 miles). Combined (optional six-speed automatic): 6.2 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 45.5 mpg imp, 37.9 mpg USA, 16.1 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 983 km (611 miles).

- CO2 emissions: 153 g/km (EU5).

*** X1 sDrive20d: Four-cylinder diesel engine with all-aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable intake geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection.

Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 130 kW/177 hp (174 bhp) at 4,000 rpm. Max torque: 350 Nm/258 lb-ft from 1,750 to 3,000 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed manual. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 8.1 sec. Top speed: 205 km/h (127 mph). (218 km/h or 135 mph with optional high-speed set-up).

- Urban consumption: 6.4 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 44.1 mpg imp, 36.7 mpg USA, 15.6 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy is 953 km (592 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank.

- Extra urban consumption to the EU standard: 4.7 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 60.0 mpg imp, 50.0 mpg USA, 21.2 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 1297 km (806 miles).

- Combined consumption to the EU standard: 5.3 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 53.2 mpg imp, 44.3 mpg USA, 18.8 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 1150 km (715 miles).

- CO2 emissions: 139 g/km (EU5).

*** X1 xDrive18d: Four-cylinder diesel engine with all-aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable intake geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection.

Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 105 kW/143 hp (141 bhp) at 4,000 rpm. Max torque: 320 Nm/236 lb-ft from 1,750 to 3,000 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed manual. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 10.1 sec. Top speed: 195 km/h (121 mph).

- Urban consumption: 6.7 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 42.1 mpg imp, 35.1 mpg USA, 14.9 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy is 910 km (565 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank. – Extra urban fuel consumption to the EU standard: 5.1 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 55.3 mpg imp, 46.1 mpg USA, 19.6 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 1196 km (743 miles).

- Combined consumption: 5.7 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 49.5 mpg imp, 41.2 mpg USA, 17.5 km / litre). Combined fuel autonomy is 1070 km (664 miles).

- CO2 emissions: 150 g/km (EU5).

*** X1 sDrive18d: Four-cylinder diesel engine with all-aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable intake geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection.

Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 105 kW/143 hp (141 bhp) at 4,000 rpm. Max torque: 320 Nm/236 lb-ft from 1,750 to 3,000 rpm.

Transmission: six-speed manual. Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 9.6 sec. Top speed: 200 km/h (124 mph).

- Urban consumption: 6.1 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 46.3 mpg imp, 38.5 mpg USA, 16.4 km / litre). Urban fuel autonomy is 1000 km (621 miles) with the full 61-litre fuel tank.

- Extra urban consumption: 4.7 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 60.1 mpg imp, 50.0 mpg USA, 21.2 km / litre). Extra urban fuel autonomy is 1297 km (806 miles).

- Combined consumption: 5.2 ltr/100 kilometres (equal to 54.3 mpg imp, 45.2 mpg USA, 19.2 km / litre) with a fuel autonomy of 1173 km (728 miles).

- CO2 emissions: 136 g/km (EU5).

This article is featured with its photos and / or graphics / technical specifications at http://www.motiontrends.com (since 2000), an online car magazine covering new models, car tuning and automotive technology.

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