Speeding Leads To Couple\’s Fatalities

By: Catherine White

Recently a trial was held that was focusing on the death of a couple, after they were involved in a car accident caused by a speeding Subaru.

The couple were killed when the high-powered car travelling at 87mph smashed into their vehicle, the court heard.

The man and woman were pronounced dead at the scene after the crash on the B4598 Raglan and Abergavenny in south wales on April 20th last year.

Dangerous driving

A female driver has been accused of causing their deaths by dangerous driving after her Subaru Impreza hit the couples Saab 95. The prosecutor Michael Mather-Lees said the female driver was trying to avoid an oncoming Rover vehicle, which was turning into the Hardwick pub lay-by just prior to the shattering accident.

The 29-year-old defendant from Penpergwm, Abergavenny, south Wales, denies both counts. Mr Mather-Lees said the female driver’s Subaru veered to the right to avoid a crash but clipped the Rover in doing so, colliding with the couple’s Saab which was also travelling in the opposite direction on the national speed limit road.

Mr Mather-Lees said: “We say the manner of driving of the defendant fell far below the standard of a competent motorist and we don’t say that simply because of the dreadful events that took place.

“We say the manner of driving a little way before the accident demonstrated quite clearly how she chose to use the road and that car that day.”

However, such a manoeuvre is prohibited on the road, due to an approaching brow of a hill. A witness, Mr Hughes, who is a retired bus driver, said at Newport Crown Court, that he was overtaken by the defendant a short distance before the crash on the stretch of road, where the move is banned.

Mr Hughes and his wife Kay were travelling with their young granddaughter from their home in Merthyr Tydfill to the Usk area on the day of the accident.

He told the jury he noticed a “large car” coming up “quite quickly” behind him as he travelled at about 35mph.

“As we go up the next bend it overtakes me on double white lines on the wrong side of the road,” said Mr Hughes.

“It passed me and cut back in sharply in front of me and I saw the back end of the car go down as it accelerates away from me.”

Mr Hughes said after his Citroen Berlingo had negotiated the brow of the hill he saw in the distance the Subaru move across the road in a ’slanted fashion’ to the right before ‘ploughing’ into another car.

Mrs Hughes said she was feeding her granddaughter a yoghurt in the back of the car when they were overtaken by the defendant.

“We had just come off the roundabout and were travelling at about 30mph and the car (Subaru) was doing at least double of what we were doing,” she stated.

Mr Mather-Lees said: “We say, members of the jury, that the manner in which she overtook the Hughes’s Citroen was just the prologue to something terrible that was going to happen.”

He added: “She was driving along that road wholly dangerously and inappropriately and she substantially caused this accident.

“It is the prosecution’s case, ladies and gentleman of the jury, that when you have heard all the evidence, that you will come to the conclusion that the female driver, was a substantial cause of this accident and the death of these two people.”

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_2994.shtml

Zipcar Vs. City Car Share: The Battle Royale

By: Jeremy Ambers

I’ve had a recurring conversation, with many people, about the two Community Car Share companies in South of Market. Which one is better? Which one is cooler? Which one should I use?

Everyone seems to have their own opinion, but I’ve been wondering which of the two is better based solely on facts about each. I’ve spent this morning compiling all of the necessary data, and the results are in…

The following information is based on both Zipcar and City Car Share’s basic 1 year membership plan for residents of South of Market. The information I have compiled is for SOMA only. They both offer additional plans for more frequent users, students and businesses. For more information on those, you can check out their websites.

Membership Fees: Advantage Zipcar

Both Zipcar and City Car Share have ‘application fees’ as well as annual or monthly fees. Zipcar has a $25, one time application fee, and charges $50 for a one year membership commitment. City Car Share has a $30, one time application fee and charges $10 per month with no commitment. That means that for the first year, CCS will cost $150 just to be a member, while Zipcar is only $75. Unless you’re only looking to be a member for a month or two, it makes more economical sense to go with Zipcar.

Amount of Available Cars: Advantage Zipcar

There are 125 Zipcars located throughout South of Market. City Car Share has only 25.

Types of Cars Available: Advantage Zipcar

Both companies have very similar vehicles in their fleet. City Car Share offers a slightly more ‘environmentally friendly’ selection. Nearly 33% of their cars are hybrid’s that get over 40 mpg. However, in terms of variety, Zipcar takes the pie. They have all the cars that CCS offers, as well as a number of others including two different types of BMW. Of course, if you want to drive around impressing everyone in a beamer, it’ll cost you. Those are the cars that cost $13.50 per hour. Hey, you gotta spend money to look good!

Location of Cars: Advantage Zipcar

City Car Share currently offers 15 different locations throughout South of Market, while Zipcar has 34 from which to choose. You can view all of the different locations for both Car Locations HERE.

Hourly Rate: Advantage City Car Share

I’m not entirely convinced that the advantage should go to City Car Share, but based on just reserving a car for one hour, CCS offers 24 of the 25 cars in SOMA for $5 per hour, and the other one for $7. Most of the Zipcar vehicles are $8.75 per hour, with a couple that were $7.o0, and a few at $13.50.

However, Zipcar offers 180 miles free with your reservation while CCS charges $.40 per mile, so if you reserve a car for 3 hours through CCS, and drive 180 miles, it would cost you $87 while the same rental through Zipcar at $8.75 per hour would cost you $26.25. Ultimately, it depends on what you’re renting the car for. If you’re just going down the street to Trader Joes, you’ll save money using CCS, but if you’re doing a 3 hour relay to Sacramento and back, you may want to go with Zipcar.

Ease of Reservations: Advantage City Car Share

Both companies have a very simple online reservation system that allows you to reserve cars in realtime. However, the slight advantage goes to City Car Share because they allow you to reserve cars in 15 minute increments while Zipcar gives you 1/2 hour blocks.

Additional Fees: Advantage Neither

Both Car Sharing companies have a number of extra fees. The good news is that if you’re a responsible driver, and you take care of your reservations as well as the vehicle while it’s under your control, you’ll be alright. Most of the fees have to do with negligence on your part. For instance, if you return the car dirty with excessive pet hair or odors, bith companies charge a $50 fee.

They also have fees if you fail to cancel your reservation within a certain amount of time. The timing varies based on the length of your reservation, time of cancellation before the reservation begins, etc. The bottom line is don’t return the car dirty, low on gas or broken, and always remember to cancel your reservation in a timely manner. If you get an added fee, it’s your own fault!

Overall: Advantage Zipcar

I honestly have to say that I think it’s a no brainer. Zipcar is just too big and excessively available that they take the prize of best Car Sharing Company in South of Market. I’d love to side with the Nonprofit City Car Share, however they just don’t have the car power or availability to compete. Not to mention they cost $70 more per year just to be a member!

In an effort for full disclosure, I’ve been a member of Zipcar since 2006. When I moved to South of Market and discovered City Car Share, I looked into whether it would be more beneficial to join their service, or even to be a member of both. It’s been my experience with Zipcar that they not only have cars within a block from my apartment, but they’ve yet to not have a car available for me when I need it, even at the last minute. Therefore, I have no incentive to switch or add CCS. It’d just be an added expense. What do you think?

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3043.shtml

How to Find a Used Car Dealer

By: Rick Braun

It will be a momentous decision when you decide to buy a used car or second hand car. If you take a wrong decision, it will be a bothering experience throughout your life. It is not like buying vegetables or provisions on a daily basis. It is once in 4/5 years we buy a second hand car. So, utmost care & concentration is required. There are number of models & makes and there is an equal number dealers & sellers to choose from. It is a time consuming process to knock at the right door. As the options are plenty, it will be a case of confusion worse confounded.

You have to spend time for making a decision. First, you have to decide about your requirement. For what purpose, you are in need of this car? Is it merely for transporting somebody? Is it a family car used for picnic jaunts? Do you require the car for cargo moment? Does it serve the purpose of school shuttles? Or is it going to be used as an ambulance? Or, precisely, is it intended to serve as a mortuary van? Will it be employed in tourist industry? Or, a safe-vault for transferring cash from banks to offices? All these aspects are to be thought about before deciding to purchase.

You have to enlist the various features pertaining to a car.

MPG – Fuel prices (Periodic increases consequent upon the crude oil price in the international market).

Fuel Type – Petrol/diesel/hybrid.

Engine Capacity – 1200cc/1600cc/3litres.

Insurance Coverage – your premium amount & the payment pattern.

Doors – 3/4/5

Color – in tune with your aesthetic sensibility.

Accessories – Car radio, A/C plant, headlights, over-roof carrier, etc,

Upholstery – interior decoration satisfying your tastes.

Mileage – low or high mileage to serve your specific needs.

Price – to fall within your budgetary allocation.

All these factors are to be reflected upon before clinching the deal. To facilitate you, Internet comes to your rescue. Please search with autotrader.co.uk, compucars.co.uk, and eBay.co.uk or fireup Google to search for the dealer.

On chancing upon the right car, you have to prepare a checklist of procedures to follow. RAC can be entrusted upon making a mechanical check upon the car. HPI is another organization which can give a report on the status check of the car. You have to get a VSC certificate and a latest MOT certificate. Service history & mileage factor are to be taken care of. Then, comes the question of warranty & guarantee. After sale service is an important area. If you intend to buy from a dealer, enquire about his business reputation in the market. Why not visit car sales Plymouth or check here cars sales Plymouth to get more details.

The used car sales in Michigan are noteworthy as it comes with great discounts. How to get the best bargain is the next question. The vehicles coming for sales are normally repossessed by banks due to default in payments or impounded by the police when the owner violates traffic rules or stolen property confiscated by the hands of law. Due to such actions, a third party is permitted to hold auctions. Internet provides you instant information about place of auction, date, car lists, owner’s names… They are sold within the shortest possible time & at reasonable prices. Even though it is a highly-profitable market, this auction has remained in low limelight till date. Only a selected group of dealers participate.

Information about auctions are published in newspapers. At any rate, presently, Internet offers very good opportunity to note online data bases. Search for repossessed cars based on location. All latest info about auctions can b accessed from computers within Internet connection. Different types of vehicles – sports, SUV’s, trucks, Lorries, vans, mini buses – come for sale as per Internet directory. Online listing saves time & energy and directs the buyer to auctioneers in the place of dealers. Locating second hand cars in WI depends on information root & its trustworthiness. You should know how it operates & how to get out of scams/scandals.

In some auctions, preview period is allowed. This gives you ample chance to verify the conditions of the car, if at all you are assisted by an experienced mechanic. Check all these aspects before signing on the cheque leaf. Now, the picture is rosy. And, you have to be choosy.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3011.shtml

Removing Water Marks From Glass

By: Jon Miller (TOGWT)

Removing Water (Spots) Marks

Detailer’s may occasionally come across vehicles which exhibit what appears to be one of the following conditions: Water Spots, Etching or a “rough to the touch” feel.

Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) the spots are actually traces of minerals in the pores of the glass. They need to be dissolved into a liquid and then rinsed off. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)

There are two categories of ‘water spots’-

1) Stage One Corrosion

[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

(Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

2) Stage Two Corrosion

[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

Below surface (etched) acidic watermarks – are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.

If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won’t discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

Use the least abrasive product first-

1.Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2.Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b)Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3.Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4.Use detailing clay to remove any ‘hard’ surface granules

5.Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6.For Ceramiclear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7.Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8.Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

1a) Removing surface (Stage One Corrosion) –

Methodology

•Use detailing clay to remove any ‘hard’ surface granules

•Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid pH 2.4)

b)Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface

•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•If any ‘water marks’ remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)

1b) Removing etched below surface (Stage Two Corrosion)-

Methodology

•These can be removed by using detailer’s clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

•Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One ) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 / 1200 RPM ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

•Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

•Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

•Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.

•If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish

1c) To neutralise acid water spots using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system

Notes-

1. Synthetic steel or bronze wool whatever the grade can leave micro-scratches in the glass, which then become impregnated with road dirt, grit and grime, causing a clouding the glass over time, which impairs visibility.

2. Do not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.

3. For deeply etched water spots (> 0.004 Mil) in the windshield surface, do not attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive windshield vendor as glass or plastic used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer) due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause surface to become badly scratched, stressed or cracked.

3. Be cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like aluminium or cerium oxide as they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.

4. Some windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will scratch or be damaged, only use a glass polish (not synthetic steel or bronze wool) on uncoated glass.

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•If any ‘water marks’ remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3050.shtml

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Most states require you to have an automobile insurance card in your vehicle while it is being operated. In some states the proof of insurance is done at the registry and no card is required. In New Hampshire and Wisconsin no auto insurance is required at all. The card itself should have your name, policy number, and the contact information for the automobile insurance company.

The auto insurance card is an important document and you should request one even if your state does not require one. In Massachusetts there is no requirement to carry an insurance card, but if you live in MA and plan to drive through a state that requires you have one it is better to have it than not.

The penalty for not having proof of insurance can range from a ticket, which is a moving violation and will raise your insurance premiums, to license suspension. In Florida, for instance, they can suspend your license for up to three years or until you get insurance and pay a re-instatement fee which can be up to five-hundred dollars.

As you can see having the proof of insurance card with you is very important in order to stay out of trouble. If you bought your automobile insurance online you are better off in case of a lost or stolen card.

By purchasing your auto insurance online not only will you save a bunch of money you will also cut down on the inconvenience of not having an automobile insurance card if you lose yours. The cards can be downloaded and printed at any time of the day or night.

Replacing your lost insurance card is not the only benefit to shopping for auto insurance online. By purchasing your car insurance online you will have access to all of your insurance documents at any time of the day or night.

Compare free car insurance quotes online at www.SuperCheapQuotes.com today.

We also specialize in Charlotte car insurance.

Geo Prizm Built by the Combine Effort of GM and Toyota

By: Gary Millar

The Geo Prizm is a vehicle which has been made from 1990 up until the year 1997 by a cooperation and venture by the General Motors Corporation and the Toyota Motor Company. It had essentially replaced the Geo Range , as well as the Chevrolet Nova among the firm’s line up of vehicle models. The Geo Prizm is a compact car and comes in 2 body styles which comprise of the sedan with four doors and the hot hatch that sports five doors. It has been related to the Toyota Corolla and the Toyota Runner , and also considered the Ford Escort, the Dodge Colt, the Honda Civic, and the Nissan Sentra as its competition. When the production of this car had been permanently halted, the Chevrolet Prizm then succeeded this car.

In the US, the Geo Prizm was considered to be a tiny auto in the car In the automobile market. In that it still existed, the Geo Prizm was powered by the same engines that the Toyota Corollas during that time also held. From 1989 up until Prizm had been powered by the 4A FE or the optional 4A GE engine. Come 1993 up until 1997, the machine was powered by the 4A FE engine or the optional 7A FE engine. As per its last years, 1998 up until the year 2002, the Geo Prizm got its power from the 1ZZ FE engine.

This vehicle was made to sport a rear spoiler as well as body coloured grilles and fenders. There also were four wheel disc brakes. Changes were also done with the Geo Prizm. In 1991, the car was reintroduced wearing a new chrome steel exhaust system as well as black body side moldings. People who were able to deal with the Geo Prizm related that regardless of having quite a cramped passenger room and a very limited cargo room, the vehicle still recovered through a great acceleration, a better refinement, a comfortable ride, delightful visibility and a very good fuel use. Other features that the Geo Prizm held included gray steel wheels, amalgamate wheels, full wheel covers, a rounded body, snake eye headlights, flush door handles, 60/40 split back seats, a CD player, twin airbags, daytime running lights, antilock brakes, a sunroof, as well as a tilt steering wheel.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_2980.shtml

Hybrid Vehicles and Their Insurance, Gas and Maintenance Costs

By: Robert Henry

If you are planning to purchase a hybrid vehicle, you have to take time to research on the different rates that are being offered by automobile insurance companies. This is so because insurance rate for hybrid vehicles varies sharply from one insurer to the other. There are no clear indications when it comes to insurance costs for hybrid vehicles which is why a thorough research ought to be conducted when shopping for an insurance policy for hybrid vehicles with cheap insurance.

In some cases, hybrid car owners may enjoy low automobile insurance premiums as compared to owners of traditional or standard vehicles. If you choose to buy a hybrid vehicle you should be aware that there are few automobile insurance companies that offer lower premiums for their clients. The reason why these insurance companies are offering lower premiums are because they are using it as marketing tool as part of helping those people who want to be environment friendly. In addition these insurance companies are aware that hybrid car owners tend to be an insurance risk as compared to the others.

Even though in some cases the insurance cost for hybrid vehicles may end up being less than those of the traditional vehicles, you may also find out that the costs associated with hybrid vehicles are the same with those from a standard vehicle. If this is the case the insurance company may perform a risk analysis based on the cost of each vehicle to ascertain the cost of repairing or replacing a vehicle when it has been damaged. There are also some insurance companies which charge a bit high for the hybrid vehicles. This is because it can be a bit more expensive to repair a hybrid vehicle after an accident and may be due to the damages that the hybrid sustained.

Hybrid vehicles are becoming more and more popular and are increasing on the road each day which is why most insurance companies are reducing their premium rates in order to encourage more people to buy hybrid vehicles. The method of calculating the rates to be charged by auto insurance companies is based on some set criteria. This may include and is not limited to the age of the driver, distaste to risk when driving, and driving record among other factors. For instance if the auto insurance company offers a policy to a driver with a normal vehicle, they use some formulas to ascertain the likelihood for that particular driver to make a claim in the future.

Based on the above reasons you may have found out that it is necessary to shop around when looking for an insurance policy for your hybrid vehicle. The purpose for this is to get a comprehensive insurance coverage that offers the best premiums that will be affordable for you in the long run. You have to take time to do this because in the end you will find the best possible insurance for your hybrid vehicle with the most reasonable premiums.

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/auto_and_trucks/article_3045.shtml

How to Change the Evaportor in a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Without Wanting to Push it off a Cliff

By: Frank Scammell

Changing the evaporator core in a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited is not too difficult IF you take your time and don’t get frustrated. This was on a 5.2 liter engine.

Several fasteners are hidden or nearly so and some of the electrical connectors have locking mechanisms to keep them from vibrating loose.

I was lucky and could work at this in my spare time because I have an extra vehicle. It took me 3 evenings after work to get every thing apart, remove the heater /AC box and get it apart and cleaned up. I also went ahead and replaced the heater core, as this is a one-time project I hope.

Once I got the parts correct parts I was able to get the heater box in and plumbing done in one evening.

I waited until I could get my buddy to bring his nitrogen tank and vacuum pump over so we could pressurize the system to check for leaks then pull a vacuum on it before putting the dash in. No need to go to all the trouble of installing the dash only to find a connection somewhere is leaking.

The dash was set in place the next evening and then buttoned up with all the connectors and dash trim. Then the key was turned and she came back to life!! Who Hoo!!

So here are the steps I took to remove everything.

On the inside of the Jeep

Ø Put both seats as far back as you can and tilted back as well.

Under the hood:

Ø Disconnect the battery and secure the lead from accidentally re-connecting as you are climbing around in the engine compartment.

Ø Assuming that there was a leak in the core (other wise why would you be doing this?) the AC system should be empty of Freon.

Ø Drain the coolant

Ø Remove the coolant overflow tank.

Ø Remove the PCM, Its mounted with 3 – 8 mm screws. 2 of mine came out but the 3rd broke off so I had to swing mine up out of the way. It turned out to be a PITA but I made it work.

Ø Next loosen the clamp bolt holding the dryer in place.

Ø NOTE: Even though the system has been discharged please wear your safety glasses and use caution when opening the lines!!

Ø Remove both AC lines. Plug the lines and openings to keep oil from dripping all over you and your driveway. You will need a couple sizes of special disconnect tools. I bought a whole selection of them from Advance Auto for about 15 bucks. Don’t try it with out the tools you’ll get frustrated and bust something.

Ø NOTE: The pipes for the heater core crush super easy!! It may be best to remove the hoses at the engine and pull the heater box out and the hoses along with if you’re not planning on replacing the heater core. I didn’t heed this and crushed mine trying to break the hoses loose.

Ø Slide the squeeze type clamps back away from the firewall and off the hoses or you wont be able to get the box out.

Ø There are 5 – 7/16 nuts to remove that hold the heater box against the firewall. One behind the PCM another the is hidden because there is a bundle of wires tied to it, 2 near the heater hoses and one behind the distributor cap. This one you may want to remove the Intake snorkel to get the nut off.

Ø Block the wheels so the jeep won’t move as we need to take it out of gear.

Now lets get back on the inside of the Jeep!!

v Turn on the ignition and put the shifter in low to get it out of the way.

v Remove the A- pillar trim on both sides, speaker trim that fits against the windshield, watch for the light sensor! Twist to remove it. Next the center dash trim and burled wood look trim if so equipped.

v Remove right (passenger) kick panel.

v On passenger side remove all those pesky electrical plugs connected to the fuse block. They all simply plug in and are keyed to keep them from going in the wrong place.

v There is a bolt above the fuse box and connector 13 mm if I recall that has to be removed to loosen the dash.

v Pull back the carpet near the center of the dash. There is a ½ inch hose here to take loose.

v Pull out the antennae connector and disconnect it if you can get to it at this time. There are also a couple of miscellaneous connectors under this side of the dash as well. Take your time and look around. I also removed the glove box to be able to get a better look around in there. Just a couple of screws are all that holds it in place.

v On the drivers side remove the plastic trim from under the steering column.

v Remove the knee block from under the dash and the metal brace beneath that.

v Remove the lower corner trim from the dash 2 screws and a clip.

v Behind the corner trim is a hole with a bolt way back in it. Remove the 13 mm bolt you find inside and move to the center console.

v Center console- pull back carpet from bottom of dash area . There is a metal plate with 2 bolts (13mm) to the floor and 2 to the bottom center of the dash.

v Remove the ashtray and behind it the screw into the dash.

v Disconnect the brake light switch. Tilt the steering wheel up and remove the tilt lever. Remove the 2 screws holding the plastic housing around the column. Once you have those out of the way disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the multi function switch and anything else in there. The multi function switch has a bolt thru the center of it to hold it in place.

v Remove the bolts from underneath the column that hold it to the dash.

v Be careful not to turn the wheel with it disconnected as I’ve heard that internal damage to the steering mechanism can occur.

v Remove the nuts along the top of the dash under where the speaker/defrost grill was removed.

v I also removed all the screws from the dash pad and took it out as well. I found out later that this was an un necessary step but not a complete waste as I thought it made handling the dash by myself easier. There were more places to grab a hold of it and to maneuver it for easier removal.

v You may want to cover the shifter console with a thick blanket

as the dash will be resting on it as you take it out.

v SLOWLY start to move the dash back and watch for missed connectors as you go. Once you have the dash loose remove it and place it somewhere out of the way.

v Here may be a good time for an adult beverage if you are so inclined.

v Now you can see the heater/AC box. You can finally see your prey!!

v There is one or maybe two 10 mm bolts left holding it in place along with a connector to the heater fan. The connector wires are red and black I think.

v There is also the AC drain outlet, which goes thru the firewall. It probably is stuck in place with RTV.

v Now if you haven’t missed any thing the heater box should come free with some gentle persuasion.

Once you have it out and on the garage floor or bench turn it upside down and start removing the screws holding the halves of the box together. One screw is under some of the ducting. Remove the ducting by pressing in on the snap connections. Once the box comes apart the evaporator slides out. The heater core is held in place with a screw on top of the housing as I remember.

Now if you haven’t gotten frustrated and taken a blow torch to your vehicle you should be ready to put it all back together again.

Remember take your time and if you start feeling rushed or stressed -walk away!!

I hope this guide has been helpful to you.

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